New insights into archaeological textiles (1000–1450AD) from the coastal region of the Atacama Desert: Preliminary evidence of a cochineal and shellfish purple dye combination


Por: Cárcamo-Vega J.J., Sepúlveda M., Casanova-González E., Gutiérrez S., Mitrani A., Dauelsberg E.J., Aliaga Á.E., Lemp C., Ruvalcaba-Sil J.L.

Publicada: 1 ene 2025
Resumen:
A multi-instrumental and non-destructive approach was used to integrally analyze four archaeological textiles from the Pre-Columbian Playa Miller-3 funerary site (1100–1450 AD) located on the coast of the Atacama Desert. The protocol included a fiber washing process with a dilute Triton X100 surfactant to remove the excess metallic components and impurities adhered to the surface of the dyed fibers. The use of animal fibers was confirmed via optical microscopy, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR). Using X-ray fluorescence (XRF) and comparing the elemental profiles of washed and unwashed textile fibers with those of soils from the archaeological site, we obtained elemental information related to potential mordants used in the dyeing process and detected the presence of bromine in some textile samples. Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy (SERS) using gold nanostructures identified the use of carminic acid and suggested a dye mixture composed of cochineal (carminic acid) and shellfish purple (dibromoindigo), which has not been previously reported for the Atacama Desert. This work provides new insights into pre-Columbian ancestral knowledge involved in the textile technology of the coastal population from this southern Andean region. © 2025 Cárcamo-Vega et al. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.

Filiaciones:
Cárcamo-Vega J.J.:
 Universidad de Tarapacá, Arica, Chile

Sepúlveda M.:
 Departamento de Ciencias Sociales, Facultad de Ciencias Sociales, Universidad de Tarapacá, Iquique, Chile

Casanova-González E.:
 CONAHCyT—Laboratorio Nacional de Ciencias para la Investigación y Conservación del Patrimonio Cultural, Instituto de Física, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Mexico City, Mexico

Gutiérrez S.:
 Universidad de Tarapacá, Arica, Chile

 Laboratorio de Análisis e Investigaciones Arqueométricas, Departamento de Antropología, Universidad de Tarapacá, Arica, Chile

Mitrani A.:
 Laboratorio Nacional de Ciencias para la Investigación y Conservación del Patrimonio Cultural, Instituto de Física, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Mexico City, Mexico

Dauelsberg E.J.:
 Laboratorio de Espectroscopía Vibracional, Departamento de Química, Facultad de Ciencias, Universidad de Chile, Ñuñoa, Chile

Aliaga Á.E.:
 Laboratorio de Espectroscopía Vibracional, Departamento de Química, Facultad de Ciencias, Universidad de Chile, Ñuñoa, Chile

Lemp C.:
 Santiago, Chile

Ruvalcaba-Sil J.L.:
 Laboratorio Nacional de Ciencias para la Investigación y Conservación del Patrimonio Cultural, Instituto de Física, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, Mexico City, Mexico
ISSN: 19326203
Editorial
PUBLIC LIBRARY SCIENCE, 1160 BATTERY STREET, STE 100, SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94111 USA, Estados Unidos America
Tipo de documento: Article
Volumen: 20 Número: 6
Páginas:
WOS Id: 001502962000013
ID de PubMed: 40465743